In Search of an Adivinador

On Sunday I ventured to Zunil with a friend, whose last wish before heading back to the U.S. the following day was to visit an adivinador (fortune teller, shaman, medicine man, etc.) who he had heard about. I was a bit hesitant at first because over the years I have become less impressed with my visits to these fortune tellers, but I decided what the heck. If anything, it would be a cultural experience and besides, I was to serve as the interpreter.

Zunil is a small agricultural and market town about 10 kms away from Xela. It was a busy day in Zunil, with villagers coming from far away to sell their vegetables, fruits, and flowers. After getting turned down when I asked a group of women if I could take a picture of them with their lovely flowers, I resorted to sneaking in a few pictures. Once that was done, it was time to proceed with the original purpose of this visit.

There was a slight problem, the only thing we knew about this adivinador was that we was on the hefty side and had long hair. We didn't have a name or an address for him. Not much to go on, but we figured that being a town of only 6,000 inhabitants people would know exactly what we were talking about. Well, not really...we started asking around and got plenty of strange looks and negative responses. After a while, this was becoming an absolute joke. Here we were about the only non-Mayans in sight, asking ridiculous questions and to top it off, my friend with very passionate, yet fragmented Spanish, saying things like:

"Estamos buscando por un hombre...un hombre muy especial...es poco gordo y tiene pelo largo" ("We are looking for a man...a very special man..he somewhat fat and has long hair.")

After over an hour, we managed to track down the home of this adivinador. He was very inviting and receptive to speaking with us, despite the fact that it was a Sunday afternoon and he was with his family.

Our first lesson: He was not an adivinador, but a Mayan priest. He has been a Mayan priest for over 30 years and during this time has intensely studied the Mayan calendar, performed ceremonies, etc. By this time I am feeling like a complete idiot....

The priest began to give my friend a reading based on his birth date, place of birth, etc. No cards, stones, or palms, just based on this information he determined his day according to the Mayan calendar. It’s a bit difficult to understand and hence to explain, but according to Mayan beliefs, from birth, one's destiny is determined based on their calendar.

What I found particularly interesting was when he began talking about politics and other religions in Guatemala, predominantly Catholicism and Evangelicalism. He became very fervid, talking about how these religions have divided the Maya and treated them like the devil if they don't adhere to their religions. During the 36-year civil war, Mayan communities were a primary target of persecution and ceremonies had to be held clandestinely. Following the peace accords in 1996, the situation has improved, but he fervently maintained that these religions are divisive.

He shared with us a little bit about his life: His grandparents were also Mayan priests. There were about 7 or 8 times in his life that he came close to dying, but they conducted ceremonies for him and saved his life and told him that his calling was to do the same.

I was blown away by the whole experience and intend to visit him again in the near future to learn more.

Food- Comida!!!

I have officially been here for a week already, although for some reason it seems like much longer. Llevo oficialmente una semana aquí ya, aunque por alguna razón se siente como mucho más tiempo.

I have been enjoying the food immensely, as I knew I would. There are few foods that I do not relish. He estado disfrutando inmensamente de la comida, como yo lo sabía. Hay pocas comidas que yo no disfruto.

Almost every day I’ve indulged in huevos, frijoles, platanos, crema and tortillas for breakfast. Now that’s the way to start off the day! Casi todos los días me he dado el gusto de huevos, frijoles, plátanos, crema y tortillas para el desayuno. Eso si que es buena forma de empezar el día!

Tostadas, tacos, and pupusas galore. The taco place up the street, ORALE, has three tacos for 10 quetzales (approximately $1.30). Tostadas, tacos, y pupusas en cantidad. El lugar de tacos mas arriba, ORALE, tiene tres tacos por 10 quetzales (aproximadamente $1.30)

I’m working on the fruits and vegetables, although I am doing this with some caution. I want to wait a week or two before I get sick. There are avocadoes; you find them anywhere and everywhere. An avocado a day…hey and for 1 quetzal (20 cents)… Poco a poco estoy tratando con las frutas y verduras, pero lo hago con mucha precaución. Quiero esperar una semana o dos para enfermarme. Si hay aguacates; se encuentran en todos lados. Un aguacate al día..y por un quetzal (20 centavos)...

Mmmm, I’m very hungry right now, time to go to ORALE! Ayyy que hambre, no puedo más, es hora de ir a ORALE!

How could I forget Pollo Campero-fast food chicken- it's huge here! I heard they are expanding to China! Well, I haven't tried it yet, but I will be sure to give a full review when I do.

Tomorrow I might just break down and visit the local Mc Donalds.

1st day in the highlands- another world

The 4 ½ hour bus ride to Quetzaltenango- known by locals as Xela- was much better than expected, considering that I expected up to a 7 hour ride of inhaling smoke and dust because of all the massive work on the roads.

Along the way, I noticed that I was becoming increasingly tired the higher we rode up into the mountains. By the time we arrived in Xela, I was feeling dizzy and short of breath- rather common symptoms for those not accustomed to the altitude of 7,775 feet.

Xela, the second largest city in Guatemala with a population of 300,000, is the center of the K’iche Mayan people, who make up approximately half of the city’s population.

My first day in Xela was straight to work. There’s no time to waste- setting up workshops, meeting with local organizations and planning benefit parties. It’s going to be a busy next few months.

1st day in Guate

After sick passengers, rush hour on the runway, missing my connecting flight in Miami and staying the night in Gloria Estefan land, I finally made it to Guatemala on Tuesday.

I know this for sure because there was huge sign for Hooters that said "Welcome to Guatemala." You can count on those hooters girls for anything!

Poor Guatemala City, it has such a bad reputation. Most travelers just land here and then immediately leave for their next destination. I'm glad I decided to enjoy the day here and wait until the next day to head out for Quetzaltenango.

I met a girl from Philadelphia staying at the same bed and breakfast, who coincidently was also headed to Quetzaltenango the next day, and we quickly became friends. We decided to explore some of the capital. It seems that our options by that point were rather limited- we ended up at the zoo, a very impressive and well-kept zoo at that.

It took a while, but eventually, amidst all the Mc Donald's, Pollo Campero, and other fast food chains, we found a place to get some typical food- beans, plantains and of course, Gallo beer.

At 6:30 it started to get dark so we quickly made our way back to the B&B. Hmmm, we knew what bus to take, but really had no idea where to get off. A woman on the bus said she was getting off where we were and that she would show us the way. She did more than that, we talked for a bit, she showed us her lovely house and then showed us the way back to the B&B.

It couldn't have been a better first day in Guate: monkeys, frijoles and amazingly warm people.

Intro

I have officially begun a new chapter in my life, full of learning, observations, and lessons in life. After living in New York for the past eight years, I was desperate to see life through a different lens and live my life in another way. I was becoming way too spoiled in every way imaginable and feeling increasingly uncomfortable with that because I was losing touch with what I have known for so long that I have wanted to do- help those who are less fortunate and be a part of their struggle for social justice.

This is where I not only want to be but where I need to be: Quetzaltenango (Xela), Guatemala

To a certain extent, I am spoiled for being here. I did not leave my family and friends behind due to arduous economic or political circumstances. This was a choice I made. I am fortunate to have the opportunity to do this and to know that I can go back whenever I want.