I woke up on Saturday morning to no power...oh well, these things happen. It seems this was due to the construction they are doing on the highway.
As I am sitting in Ricca Burger (yes, Ricca Burger) waiting for my usual order of eggs, refried beans and cheese, I begin to contemplate the busy day ahead.
Inside I am whimpering like a child because of the flea bites on my arms and waist. I am hoping the situation was resolved with some deadly spray. I really hope tonight they are not waiting for me. I want to sleep alone!
First thing this morning, it’s off to a hill right on the edge of town to go pick up trash from the street. It seems that the community there has been pushing the municipality for TRASH CANS, but to no avail......
From there, there is only one thing to do- FUTBOL. The Gold Cup match between Guatemala and Canada (Ends up the power still didn't come back in most parts of the city and so, another unforgettable fútbol experience, running around town trying to find somewhere to watch the match. Mind you, we were very close to watching it on the sidewalk)
After that (a terrible, depressing match in which Guatemala lost), a little bit of everything- go to the fruit and vegetable market, paint, and prepare for a benefit party tonight. This will involve me being bartender for part of the night :) Yet again, something new for me......I don't ever know what I may be doing the next day or week and surely I am clueless as to what may come next month. There is no everyday here!
lunes, 18 de junio de 2007
lunes, 11 de junio de 2007
La Florida
This weekend it was definitely time to get out of the city. I decided to venture out with a group of people to a farm a few hours away called La Florida.
Living in Xela you can sometimes forget where you are. It's a pretty large city with all the major amenities. It's no New York, but you can definitely live very comfortably here. Also, there is a rather large population of foreigners that come to Xela to volunteer and study Spanish. You can end up speaking more English than you would want to at times.
I've visited a few small communities already with work and it’s been unbelievable. People living in the communities are so extremely warm and receiving and to be able to bond with the families and children is invaluable.
The farm we visited has quite an interesting history. In 2002, a group of landless campesinos (farmers) made up of 50 families left their homes and occupied the abandoned farm of La Florida. During the more than two years of occupation the members lived in makeshift homes of bamboo and plastic. Finally, in 2005, after years of negotiations, the community received a loan from the government to buy the land and they became the proud owners of their own land for the very first time.
The farm is a cooperative in which the land is owned and farmed collectively and in addition, each family gets their own parcel of land. The spirit of community and gender equality is abounding.
I was very excited to be able to get to know this exemplary community, but I'll be honest, I was a bit SCARED. I was not only going to partake in the community activities, but also in their rustic way of life. After being in New York for eight years I became tough in many ways, but such a wimp in others. From the beginning of the trip, I decided to designate myself as the role model of "what NOT to do."
We arrived at La Florida on Saturday around mid-day. It was a group of six of us. We received such a warm welcome from Rosaura, one of the leaders of the community. Our original plan was to do some sort of volunteer work at the farm, but when we arrived it ended up that there was nothing to do. These things happen. We basically would just hang out, walk around and take some tours of this massive farm.
Our tour up the river was the first test of my bravery. Not much to brag about in this department. I was a wimp and all I could think of was when this tour through the jungle would be over. After a good 45 minutes, it got better and I could appreciate this incredible tour of nature, birds, trees, plants that I had never seen before.
When we got back to the village itself, we had a whole lot of time to kill before dinner. Hmmm, I could either stay at the guest house and observe all the insects, spiders and other creatures that I might be sleeping with that night or I could go out and talk with people from the community. I opted for the latter. Before I knew it we were playing fútbol – the ultimate bonding experience- with a group of young boys from the community. We must have played for at least 2 hours or so and since I had already injured myself within the first 15 minutes of playing, I decided to retreat. I felt absolutely dehydrated and let myself have some water, although not too much. After seeing a huge black, unidentifiable animal in the bathroom, I planned on drinking as little fluids as possible so that I wouldn’t have to use the bathroom.
For dinner, each of us from the group was to eat with a different family not only for dinner that night, but also for breakfast and lunch the next day. I was excited about eating with Carlos' family, we had bonded earlier in the day playing fútbol. I got to meet his mother, Leonarda and his three brothers and one sister. Dinner was more than sufficient, tamales, but really the best part was the company.
It was already pitch dark outside and it was time to head back to the house where I would be sleeping that night. All I can say is that I was so tired from the trip, the game, and the tour that I couldn't care less what was going to bite or attack me that night. I needed a full night's rest for the following day in which we were going to take a full tour of the farm. I put on my long sweats, socks, jacket, hood and hid under the covers.....
7 am the next day it was rise and shine. I headed over to my family’s house for breakfast. I was in awe when I saw Carlos, 12, and his two older brothers already dressed and ready to go somewhere. They were headed to the corn fields to collect husk which they use for the tamales.
Around 8:30am we began our tour. It was unbelievable to say the least and I can't even begin to tell you how enormous the farm is. We saw coffee plants, banana trees (at least three different kinds), beans, infinite fields of corn, avocadoes, cacao and much more. And to think that this small community worked all of these fields…
I had only one last chance to eat with Carlos and his family. Around noon, he and his brothers were just getting back from the fields, looking pretty tired and famished. We ate the best meal ever I have to say- rice and beans- and took tons of pictures. They love pictures! I have to keep my promise about bringing them the pictures. I could send them with someone, but for some reason I wouldn’t feel right about that. I’ll make another journey out there soon. Maybe next time I’ll be more valiant.
A final note about the trip: It seems that I wasn’t the only one lacking in a certain department. When we were leaving the farm, one of the guys from the group, very tall and thickset, revealed that the night before he was scared to even close his eyes and go to sleep because he didn’t know what creatures might attack that night…..
Living in Xela you can sometimes forget where you are. It's a pretty large city with all the major amenities. It's no New York, but you can definitely live very comfortably here. Also, there is a rather large population of foreigners that come to Xela to volunteer and study Spanish. You can end up speaking more English than you would want to at times.
I've visited a few small communities already with work and it’s been unbelievable. People living in the communities are so extremely warm and receiving and to be able to bond with the families and children is invaluable.
The farm we visited has quite an interesting history. In 2002, a group of landless campesinos (farmers) made up of 50 families left their homes and occupied the abandoned farm of La Florida. During the more than two years of occupation the members lived in makeshift homes of bamboo and plastic. Finally, in 2005, after years of negotiations, the community received a loan from the government to buy the land and they became the proud owners of their own land for the very first time.
The farm is a cooperative in which the land is owned and farmed collectively and in addition, each family gets their own parcel of land. The spirit of community and gender equality is abounding.
I was very excited to be able to get to know this exemplary community, but I'll be honest, I was a bit SCARED. I was not only going to partake in the community activities, but also in their rustic way of life. After being in New York for eight years I became tough in many ways, but such a wimp in others. From the beginning of the trip, I decided to designate myself as the role model of "what NOT to do."
We arrived at La Florida on Saturday around mid-day. It was a group of six of us. We received such a warm welcome from Rosaura, one of the leaders of the community. Our original plan was to do some sort of volunteer work at the farm, but when we arrived it ended up that there was nothing to do. These things happen. We basically would just hang out, walk around and take some tours of this massive farm.
Our tour up the river was the first test of my bravery. Not much to brag about in this department. I was a wimp and all I could think of was when this tour through the jungle would be over. After a good 45 minutes, it got better and I could appreciate this incredible tour of nature, birds, trees, plants that I had never seen before.
When we got back to the village itself, we had a whole lot of time to kill before dinner. Hmmm, I could either stay at the guest house and observe all the insects, spiders and other creatures that I might be sleeping with that night or I could go out and talk with people from the community. I opted for the latter. Before I knew it we were playing fútbol – the ultimate bonding experience- with a group of young boys from the community. We must have played for at least 2 hours or so and since I had already injured myself within the first 15 minutes of playing, I decided to retreat. I felt absolutely dehydrated and let myself have some water, although not too much. After seeing a huge black, unidentifiable animal in the bathroom, I planned on drinking as little fluids as possible so that I wouldn’t have to use the bathroom.
For dinner, each of us from the group was to eat with a different family not only for dinner that night, but also for breakfast and lunch the next day. I was excited about eating with Carlos' family, we had bonded earlier in the day playing fútbol. I got to meet his mother, Leonarda and his three brothers and one sister. Dinner was more than sufficient, tamales, but really the best part was the company.
It was already pitch dark outside and it was time to head back to the house where I would be sleeping that night. All I can say is that I was so tired from the trip, the game, and the tour that I couldn't care less what was going to bite or attack me that night. I needed a full night's rest for the following day in which we were going to take a full tour of the farm. I put on my long sweats, socks, jacket, hood and hid under the covers.....
7 am the next day it was rise and shine. I headed over to my family’s house for breakfast. I was in awe when I saw Carlos, 12, and his two older brothers already dressed and ready to go somewhere. They were headed to the corn fields to collect husk which they use for the tamales.
Around 8:30am we began our tour. It was unbelievable to say the least and I can't even begin to tell you how enormous the farm is. We saw coffee plants, banana trees (at least three different kinds), beans, infinite fields of corn, avocadoes, cacao and much more. And to think that this small community worked all of these fields…
I had only one last chance to eat with Carlos and his family. Around noon, he and his brothers were just getting back from the fields, looking pretty tired and famished. We ate the best meal ever I have to say- rice and beans- and took tons of pictures. They love pictures! I have to keep my promise about bringing them the pictures. I could send them with someone, but for some reason I wouldn’t feel right about that. I’ll make another journey out there soon. Maybe next time I’ll be more valiant.
A final note about the trip: It seems that I wasn’t the only one lacking in a certain department. When we were leaving the farm, one of the guys from the group, very tall and thickset, revealed that the night before he was scared to even close his eyes and go to sleep because he didn’t know what creatures might attack that night…..
martes, 22 de mayo de 2007
In Search of an Adivinador
On Sunday I ventured to Zunil with a friend, whose last wish before heading back to the U.S. the following day was to visit an adivinador (fortune teller, shaman, medicine man, etc.) who he had heard about. I was a bit hesitant at first because over the years I have become less impressed with my visits to these fortune tellers, but I decided what the heck. If anything, it would be a cultural experience and besides, I was to serve as the interpreter.
Zunil is a small agricultural and market town about 10 kms away from Xela. It was a busy day in Zunil, with villagers coming from far away to sell their vegetables, fruits, and flowers. After getting turned down when I asked a group of women if I could take a picture of them with their lovely flowers, I resorted to sneaking in a few pictures. Once that was done, it was time to proceed with the original purpose of this visit.
There was a slight problem, the only thing we knew about this adivinador was that we was on the hefty side and had long hair. We didn't have a name or an address for him. Not much to go on, but we figured that being a town of only 6,000 inhabitants people would know exactly what we were talking about. Well, not really...we started asking around and got plenty of strange looks and negative responses. After a while, this was becoming an absolute joke. Here we were about the only non-Mayans in sight, asking ridiculous questions and to top it off, my friend with very passionate, yet fragmented Spanish, saying things like:
"Estamos buscando por un hombre...un hombre muy especial...es poco gordo y tiene pelo largo" ("We are looking for a man...a very special man..he somewhat fat and has long hair.")
After over an hour, we managed to track down the home of this adivinador. He was very inviting and receptive to speaking with us, despite the fact that it was a Sunday afternoon and he was with his family.
Our first lesson: He was not an adivinador, but a Mayan priest. He has been a Mayan priest for over 30 years and during this time has intensely studied the Mayan calendar, performed ceremonies, etc. By this time I am feeling like a complete idiot....
The priest began to give my friend a reading based on his birth date, place of birth, etc. No cards, stones, or palms, just based on this information he determined his day according to the Mayan calendar. It’s a bit difficult to understand and hence to explain, but according to Mayan beliefs, from birth, one's destiny is determined based on their calendar.
What I found particularly interesting was when he began talking about politics and other religions in Guatemala, predominantly Catholicism and Evangelicalism. He became very fervid, talking about how these religions have divided the Maya and treated them like the devil if they don't adhere to their religions. During the 36-year civil war, Mayan communities were a primary target of persecution and ceremonies had to be held clandestinely. Following the peace accords in 1996, the situation has improved, but he fervently maintained that these religions are divisive.
He shared with us a little bit about his life: His grandparents were also Mayan priests. There were about 7 or 8 times in his life that he came close to dying, but they conducted ceremonies for him and saved his life and told him that his calling was to do the same.
I was blown away by the whole experience and intend to visit him again in the near future to learn more.
Zunil is a small agricultural and market town about 10 kms away from Xela. It was a busy day in Zunil, with villagers coming from far away to sell their vegetables, fruits, and flowers. After getting turned down when I asked a group of women if I could take a picture of them with their lovely flowers, I resorted to sneaking in a few pictures. Once that was done, it was time to proceed with the original purpose of this visit.
There was a slight problem, the only thing we knew about this adivinador was that we was on the hefty side and had long hair. We didn't have a name or an address for him. Not much to go on, but we figured that being a town of only 6,000 inhabitants people would know exactly what we were talking about. Well, not really...we started asking around and got plenty of strange looks and negative responses. After a while, this was becoming an absolute joke. Here we were about the only non-Mayans in sight, asking ridiculous questions and to top it off, my friend with very passionate, yet fragmented Spanish, saying things like:
"Estamos buscando por un hombre...un hombre muy especial...es poco gordo y tiene pelo largo" ("We are looking for a man...a very special man..he somewhat fat and has long hair.")
After over an hour, we managed to track down the home of this adivinador. He was very inviting and receptive to speaking with us, despite the fact that it was a Sunday afternoon and he was with his family.
Our first lesson: He was not an adivinador, but a Mayan priest. He has been a Mayan priest for over 30 years and during this time has intensely studied the Mayan calendar, performed ceremonies, etc. By this time I am feeling like a complete idiot....
The priest began to give my friend a reading based on his birth date, place of birth, etc. No cards, stones, or palms, just based on this information he determined his day according to the Mayan calendar. It’s a bit difficult to understand and hence to explain, but according to Mayan beliefs, from birth, one's destiny is determined based on their calendar.
What I found particularly interesting was when he began talking about politics and other religions in Guatemala, predominantly Catholicism and Evangelicalism. He became very fervid, talking about how these religions have divided the Maya and treated them like the devil if they don't adhere to their religions. During the 36-year civil war, Mayan communities were a primary target of persecution and ceremonies had to be held clandestinely. Following the peace accords in 1996, the situation has improved, but he fervently maintained that these religions are divisive.
He shared with us a little bit about his life: His grandparents were also Mayan priests. There were about 7 or 8 times in his life that he came close to dying, but they conducted ceremonies for him and saved his life and told him that his calling was to do the same.
I was blown away by the whole experience and intend to visit him again in the near future to learn more.
martes, 15 de mayo de 2007
Food- Comida!!!
I have officially been here for a week already, although for some reason it seems like much longer. Llevo oficialmente una semana aquí ya, aunque por alguna razón se siente como mucho más tiempo.
I have been enjoying the food immensely, as I knew I would. There are few foods that I do not relish. He estado disfrutando inmensamente de la comida, como yo lo sabía. Hay pocas comidas que yo no disfruto.
Almost every day I’ve indulged in huevos, frijoles, platanos, crema and tortillas for breakfast. Now that’s the way to start off the day! Casi todos los días me he dado el gusto de huevos, frijoles, plátanos, crema y tortillas para el desayuno. Eso si que es buena forma de empezar el día!
Tostadas, tacos, and pupusas galore. The taco place up the street, ORALE, has three tacos for 10 quetzales (approximately $1.30). Tostadas, tacos, y pupusas en cantidad. El lugar de tacos mas arriba, ORALE, tiene tres tacos por 10 quetzales (aproximadamente $1.30)
I’m working on the fruits and vegetables, although I am doing this with some caution. I want to wait a week or two before I get sick. There are avocadoes; you find them anywhere and everywhere. An avocado a day…hey and for 1 quetzal (20 cents)… Poco a poco estoy tratando con las frutas y verduras, pero lo hago con mucha precaución. Quiero esperar una semana o dos para enfermarme. Si hay aguacates; se encuentran en todos lados. Un aguacate al día..y por un quetzal (20 centavos)...
Mmmm, I’m very hungry right now, time to go to ORALE! Ayyy que hambre, no puedo más, es hora de ir a ORALE!
How could I forget Pollo Campero-fast food chicken- it's huge here! I heard they are expanding to China! Well, I haven't tried it yet, but I will be sure to give a full review when I do.
Tomorrow I might just break down and visit the local Mc Donalds.
I have been enjoying the food immensely, as I knew I would. There are few foods that I do not relish. He estado disfrutando inmensamente de la comida, como yo lo sabía. Hay pocas comidas que yo no disfruto.
Almost every day I’ve indulged in huevos, frijoles, platanos, crema and tortillas for breakfast. Now that’s the way to start off the day! Casi todos los días me he dado el gusto de huevos, frijoles, plátanos, crema y tortillas para el desayuno. Eso si que es buena forma de empezar el día!
Tostadas, tacos, and pupusas galore. The taco place up the street, ORALE, has three tacos for 10 quetzales (approximately $1.30). Tostadas, tacos, y pupusas en cantidad. El lugar de tacos mas arriba, ORALE, tiene tres tacos por 10 quetzales (aproximadamente $1.30)
I’m working on the fruits and vegetables, although I am doing this with some caution. I want to wait a week or two before I get sick. There are avocadoes; you find them anywhere and everywhere. An avocado a day…hey and for 1 quetzal (20 cents)… Poco a poco estoy tratando con las frutas y verduras, pero lo hago con mucha precaución. Quiero esperar una semana o dos para enfermarme. Si hay aguacates; se encuentran en todos lados. Un aguacate al día..y por un quetzal (20 centavos)...
Mmmm, I’m very hungry right now, time to go to ORALE! Ayyy que hambre, no puedo más, es hora de ir a ORALE!
How could I forget Pollo Campero-fast food chicken- it's huge here! I heard they are expanding to China! Well, I haven't tried it yet, but I will be sure to give a full review when I do.
Tomorrow I might just break down and visit the local Mc Donalds.
lunes, 14 de mayo de 2007
1st day in the highlands- another world
The 4 ½ hour bus ride to Quetzaltenango- known by locals as Xela- was much better than expected, considering that I expected up to a 7 hour ride of inhaling smoke and dust because of all the massive work on the roads.
Along the way, I noticed that I was becoming increasingly tired the higher we rode up into the mountains. By the time we arrived in Xela, I was feeling dizzy and short of breath- rather common symptoms for those not accustomed to the altitude of 7,775 feet.
Xela, the second largest city in Guatemala with a population of 300,000, is the center of the K’iche Mayan people, who make up approximately half of the city’s population.
My first day in Xela was straight to work. There’s no time to waste- setting up workshops, meeting with local organizations and planning benefit parties. It’s going to be a busy next few months.
Along the way, I noticed that I was becoming increasingly tired the higher we rode up into the mountains. By the time we arrived in Xela, I was feeling dizzy and short of breath- rather common symptoms for those not accustomed to the altitude of 7,775 feet.
Xela, the second largest city in Guatemala with a population of 300,000, is the center of the K’iche Mayan people, who make up approximately half of the city’s population.
My first day in Xela was straight to work. There’s no time to waste- setting up workshops, meeting with local organizations and planning benefit parties. It’s going to be a busy next few months.
domingo, 13 de mayo de 2007
1st day in Guate
After sick passengers, rush hour on the runway, missing my connecting flight in Miami and staying the night in Gloria Estefan land, I finally made it to Guatemala on Tuesday.
I know this for sure because there was huge sign for Hooters that said "Welcome to Guatemala." You can count on those hooters girls for anything!
Poor Guatemala City, it has such a bad reputation. Most travelers just land here and then immediately leave for their next destination. I'm glad I decided to enjoy the day here and wait until the next day to head out for Quetzaltenango.
I met a girl from Philadelphia staying at the same bed and breakfast, who coincidently was also headed to Quetzaltenango the next day, and we quickly became friends. We decided to explore some of the capital. It seems that our options by that point were rather limited- we ended up at the zoo, a very impressive and well-kept zoo at that.
It took a while, but eventually, amidst all the Mc Donald's, Pollo Campero, and other fast food chains, we found a place to get some typical food- beans, plantains and of course, Gallo beer.
At 6:30 it started to get dark so we quickly made our way back to the B&B. Hmmm, we knew what bus to take, but really had no idea where to get off. A woman on the bus said she was getting off where we were and that she would show us the way. She did more than that, we talked for a bit, she showed us her lovely house and then showed us the way back to the B&B.
It couldn't have been a better first day in Guate: monkeys, frijoles and amazingly warm people.
I know this for sure because there was huge sign for Hooters that said "Welcome to Guatemala." You can count on those hooters girls for anything!
Poor Guatemala City, it has such a bad reputation. Most travelers just land here and then immediately leave for their next destination. I'm glad I decided to enjoy the day here and wait until the next day to head out for Quetzaltenango.
I met a girl from Philadelphia staying at the same bed and breakfast, who coincidently was also headed to Quetzaltenango the next day, and we quickly became friends. We decided to explore some of the capital. It seems that our options by that point were rather limited- we ended up at the zoo, a very impressive and well-kept zoo at that.
It took a while, but eventually, amidst all the Mc Donald's, Pollo Campero, and other fast food chains, we found a place to get some typical food- beans, plantains and of course, Gallo beer.
At 6:30 it started to get dark so we quickly made our way back to the B&B. Hmmm, we knew what bus to take, but really had no idea where to get off. A woman on the bus said she was getting off where we were and that she would show us the way. She did more than that, we talked for a bit, she showed us her lovely house and then showed us the way back to the B&B.
It couldn't have been a better first day in Guate: monkeys, frijoles and amazingly warm people.
sábado, 12 de mayo de 2007
Intro
I have officially begun a new chapter in my life, full of learning, observations, and lessons in life. After living in New York for the past eight years, I was desperate to see life through a different lens and live my life in another way. I was becoming way too spoiled in every way imaginable and feeling increasingly uncomfortable with that because I was losing touch with what I have known for so long that I have wanted to do- help those who are less fortunate and be a part of their struggle for social justice.
This is where I not only want to be but where I need to be: Quetzaltenango (Xela), Guatemala
To a certain extent, I am spoiled for being here. I did not leave my family and friends behind due to arduous economic or political circumstances. This was a choice I made. I am fortunate to have the opportunity to do this and to know that I can go back whenever I want.
This is where I not only want to be but where I need to be: Quetzaltenango (Xela), Guatemala
To a certain extent, I am spoiled for being here. I did not leave my family and friends behind due to arduous economic or political circumstances. This was a choice I made. I am fortunate to have the opportunity to do this and to know that I can go back whenever I want.
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